About this recipe
The classic version of the sultan's delight thickens its aubergine cream with a wheat flour bechamel, which puts it off limits for coeliacs. Cornflour does the same job with no difference in texture, and arguably a cleaner flavour. The smoke from properly charring the aubergines is what makes the purée worth the effort.
Ingredients
- 800 g lamb shouldercut into 3cm chunks
- 15 g fresh parsleychopped
- 2.5 tsp fine sea salt
- 0.25 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1 whole lemonjuice only
- 80 g mature cheddargrated, or Turkish kasar
- 500 ml whole milk
- 3 tbsp cornflourreplaces the traditional wheat flour
- 50 g unsalted butter
- 1.5 tsp sweet paprika
- 400 g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 4 clove garlic clovescrushed
- 1 whole onionfinely chopped
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 3 whole aubergineslarge
Method
- 1
Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a casserole over a high heat and brown the lamb in two batches, 4 minutes each, until well coloured. Lift out.
- 2
Lower the heat, add the last tablespoon of oil and cook the onion for 10 minutes until soft. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the tomato purée and paprika for 2 minutes.
- 3
Return the lamb with the chopped tomatoes, 1.5 tsp of the salt and 350ml water. Cover and simmer very gently for 1 hour 30 minutes until the lamb is falling apart. Uncover for the last 15 minutes to reduce.
- 4
Meanwhile, char the aubergines whole over a gas flame or under a very hot grill for 15 to 20 minutes, turning, until blackened and collapsed. Rest in a covered bowl for 10 minutes.
- 5
Peel off all the burnt skin, then chop the flesh finely on a board and toss it immediately with the lemon juice to stop it browning.
Chop rather than blend. Blended aubergine turns gluey and loses the texture that makes this dish.
- 6
Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Whisk in the cornflour and cook for 1 minute, then add the milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly.